


The Blog of the Bruces on tour in Europe in 2008 and 2009
And so our stay in the Veneto region of Italy comes to an end with the coldest day in the last three years. Apparently it didn't get above 0 degrees today in the town where we are staying, and it was foggy with low visibility all day. However, we did a drive up to Vicenza, about 45 mins drive away, and it was fabulously clear and blue there (but foggy within 10 mins when we headed home).
We've had a bit of everything for our stay. Initially a grey overcast day for our first day, then three glorious blue days in Padova and Venice – then snow on New Year's Eve and the cold, foggy day today.
Our accommodation was not bad, probably a 7 out of 10. The villa itself was nice – plenty of rooms and once we figured out how to control the heating both relatively warm and not too expensive to keep that way (as heating is extra). The log fire was smoky, but still much much better than not having one! The setting wasn't as rural and scenic as we hoped – though that sort of rural, hilly landscape was only a few minutes drive away the other side of Monselice (the nearest town and rail station).
Padova is about 20 mins by train, and Venice about an hour. Padova and Vicenza, like Monselice on a smaller scale, are quite typical from my experiences of historic European cities. There are spectacular buildings and squares etc – and each city seems to have its own particular claim to fame – a famous architect, the home of some famous person, or whatever. The individual buildings tend to merge into one amorphous impression of age and grandeur of vision – the angled, diffused light within gives all of them a cathedral feel, and the scale is often hard to imagine.
Venice was a bit different. Unexpectedly, it was really interesting and impressive – and even more unexpectedly one of the main reasons was its sense of genuineness. It certain ly plays up to its imagery (and it relies on people being prepared to pay ridiculous amounts for mundane things on the basis that 'it doesn't really matter how much it costs given where we are'). That said, the image is very clearly based on a reality that really is right there to see. The whole place is a totally disorganised mish-mash of design, textures, materials and shapes. It gives the impression that every planning decision was made totally in the moment with virtually no thought for any consequence, and so every decision is a simple and direct solution to the immediate need – and nothing more. I loved the colours, variety, novelty of it all. To get more than a very superficial impression of the place though, I think you need to spend at least a month there to get to know it – and so that is my new plan, though I know now how or when such a month might be possible. Not for a while at least – it is not a place for small children!