Hi, and unfortunately just a quick note, as I have not been able to get internet access in rural Italy for the last few days, and am at internet cafe in Venice for a few mins before the train leaves.
We"ve had a fabulous time in Italy for the last few days. The accommodation is quaintly rural, and pretty comfortable without being luxurious. The weather has been spectacular for the last few days, clear blue skys and sunny, though very cold. We have spent a day in Padova, and the last two days in Venice, and the conditions are perfect. Venice turns out to be a lot more interesting than I expected - there is a genuineness to most of it that belies its description as a tourist honeypot. If this is the quiet time, you would not want to see it busy! It also has a familiarity even though we have not been here before, which is a little unnerving.
Weve got some great photos, but no time to put them up now. Will do so if and when I get the chance.
Jen and Pam leave tomorrow morning, and we then follow by train to Nice with an overnight stop in Milan. My mum will continue to travel with us, which is great.
Got to run.
More news and pictures when I can.
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Friday, December 26, 2008
Going out for pizza
Tomorrow we go to Italy, as I need pizza.
We may also look at art and architecture, so long as the service is fast enough to give us enough time.
Traveling around Austria with kids has been an odd combination of the extraordinary and the everyday. The Austrian part has been, in the main, extraordinary. The traveling with kids bit has been the everyday part. Getting tha balance right for everyone has been a challenge, but one that we are getting better at. The hotel in St Gilgen had the amazing pool setting, which was great for the kids, and the setting was so spectacular that it kept us happy as well (and the restaurant and bar set up was pretty nice as well).
Tonight we are in a Eurohotel near the airport in Vienna, something of a come down from the Hollweger Hotel, but serves the purpose for one night. Lauren's snoring is the main issue at this point!
We fly into Venice tomorrow morning, and then drive down about an hour to a hamlet called Vanzo. Accommodation there is a villa, and so we hope to have plenty of room for everyone. Justine's best friend from high school in Washington (Jen) and her mum (Pam) fly in 45 mins before we do; and my mum (Fay) a couple of hours later.
We may also look at art and architecture, so long as the service is fast enough to give us enough time.
Traveling around Austria with kids has been an odd combination of the extraordinary and the everyday. The Austrian part has been, in the main, extraordinary. The traveling with kids bit has been the everyday part. Getting tha balance right for everyone has been a challenge, but one that we are getting better at. The hotel in St Gilgen had the amazing pool setting, which was great for the kids, and the setting was so spectacular that it kept us happy as well (and the restaurant and bar set up was pretty nice as well).Tonight we are in a Eurohotel near the airport in Vienna, something of a come down from the Hollweger Hotel, but serves the purpose for one night. Lauren's snoring is the main issue at this point!
We fly into Venice tomorrow morning, and then drive down about an hour to a hamlet called Vanzo. Accommodation there is a villa, and so we hope to have plenty of room for everyone. Justine's best friend from high school in Washington (Jen) and her mum (Pam) fly in 45 mins before we do; and my mum (Fay) a couple of hours later.
Thursday, December 25, 2008
It's all white now
Well, it's officially a white Christmas. It snowed in the mountains around St Gilgen last night, down to several hundred metres above the village itself. This morning we took the cable car up to the top of the Wolferhorn, where the snow was fresh and deep. It was Lauren's first experience of snow, and while she knew what it was an enjoyed it, she could only take it for a short time.
Aidan and I stayed up a little longer, and by the time we left it was virtually a white out with fine powdery snow and fog reducing visibility to only about 10m or so, and the cable car was floating in all white for a while.
Since being back in town it has started snowing at the village as well, and looks like doing so for a while. Might make getting out tomorrow tricky, but is beautiful to look at. Sitting here with a glass of red watching the snow fall and build up on thee village is very relaxing. Heading down to the bar for a coffee and cake to fill in some time, and then our last dinner with the Wolfes and Blebys this evening.
It's definitely all white now.
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Silent Night
Today we had a most remarkable experience. At the church here in St Gilgen this evening there was a series of formalities to start the celebration of Christmas, rather uninspringly decribed as a nativity play (4.15pm - just after dusk) follwed by 'tradional brass music played from the church tower' (5pm). The church tower is the one seen in the previous images of St Gilgen, which is not exactly encompassing in it space, and our expectations were of a small scale gathering in and possibly around the church.
When we arrived a little after 4pm the church was already packed and we filled the last few spaces at the very back for a few minutes while a recital of the nativity in German began. There were enough familiar terms across languages to be able to follow the story, but the setting was by far the most impressive part of this first movement.
As the children grew restless we moved out of the church itself into the grounds. Rather surprisingly, the entry way up from the street continued through the portico and on into a walled courtyard that was in fact the town cemetery, with graves dating from 2008 back though at least 150 years that we saw, and most likely much longer. At this stage the cemetry was mostly deserted aside from a few visitors to particular memorials, and people entering quietly and moving purposefully through various gates and into the church itself. On most of the graves stood at least one, and often many, candles burning either yellow and open or redly from small but neat lanterns. The cemetery was on at least three levels, and the fading royal blue sky was silently set off by the candlelight and the spotlight church spire, with deep shadows around the walls and enveloping buildings that hinted at well cared for family burial sites.
The existence of the graveyard was both a surprise and at the same time an obvious adjunct to the church. The spire dominates the skyline of St Gilgen from any angle, but the cemetary is subtly hidden behind the bulk of the building and the surrounding walls, and only by exploration does one get the chance to expereince the quiet reflection this setting seems to encourage. We walked through the town yesterday and completely circumnavigated the graveyard without even a hint as to its existence.
However, tonight was clearly special, and an important local custom. The candle and twighlight lit cemetery had been unexpected. As we wandered the town waiting for the music, we found there was a gentle but unmistakeable flood of people from streets and alleyways, always gravitating towards the central church. We expected that they would converge on the church itself, seeking those few remaining places within. However, we found ourselves back in the cemetery, but this time with literally hundreds and proabably thousands of people, most of whom appeared to be locals visiting the graves of relatives. By this time almost all the graves had candles burning, with many having Christmas trees replete with multiple candles, and a very high proportion of the graves had people actively tending to them.
This was unexpected and moving. The sheer scale of the gathering, and the serious and reflective, but also welcoming, mood was quite remarkable. At precisely 5pm the music began. Not the powerful brass Christmas carolling that we anticipated, but a slow, quiet and wheezy instrumental rendering of Silent Night drifted from the tower and across the courtyard. It was cold, but didn't seem to be. As the last refrain hung in the night, there was no applause or reaction, just a murmuring and respectful silence. Shortly, Silent Night began again, and finished again. It was repeated four or five times, each time with the same slow, controlled and gentle delivery. After the last recital, loud cracks of fireworks echoed across the valley and the crowd slowly and peacefully moved towards the exits from the cemetery.
The mood on the streets was bouyant, the crowd evidently largely local. Large groups with lanterns moved more purposefully towards the eating Haus's, and my impression was that the serious part of the evening was over and that the celebrations could now begin. We reckon it was likely that a good half of the local population may have been in the cemetery with us this evening.
We then walked back to the hotel, obviously sharing the paths with locals heading home, many (like us) carrying and cajolling small children onwards through the night. At the hotel there was a brief gathering of staff and guests, with sparkling wines, carols, piano and recitals by the family who own the hotel, and then a full scale six-course Christmas dinner. We finsihed with congnac at the bar, enjoying the second last night of our stay here together. This trip has been 15 months in the planning, and despite the travails of travelling with children, has been most worthwhile - it is sad to think this part is almost over, though Christmas morning remains to keep our excitement up.
It has been a remarkable night. On every trip I've had the chance to take there have been standout moments that took me by surprise and are the enduring images of that still resonate years later. A permanently twighlit night on Oslo Fjord; a dinner in a pub in England; camping on a beach in Ningaloo Reef; these are nights and times that I can describe in intricate detail long after the surrounding experiences have faded. Tonight will be one of those.
When we arrived a little after 4pm the church was already packed and we filled the last few spaces at the very back for a few minutes while a recital of the nativity in German began. There were enough familiar terms across languages to be able to follow the story, but the setting was by far the most impressive part of this first movement.
As the children grew restless we moved out of the church itself into the grounds. Rather surprisingly, the entry way up from the street continued through the portico and on into a walled courtyard that was in fact the town cemetery, with graves dating from 2008 back though at least 150 years that we saw, and most likely much longer. At this stage the cemetry was mostly deserted aside from a few visitors to particular memorials, and people entering quietly and moving purposefully through various gates and into the church itself. On most of the graves stood at least one, and often many, candles burning either yellow and open or redly from small but neat lanterns. The cemetery was on at least three levels, and the fading royal blue sky was silently set off by the candlelight and the spotlight church spire, with deep shadows around the walls and enveloping buildings that hinted at well cared for family burial sites.
The existence of the graveyard was both a surprise and at the same time an obvious adjunct to the church. The spire dominates the skyline of St Gilgen from any angle, but the cemetary is subtly hidden behind the bulk of the building and the surrounding walls, and only by exploration does one get the chance to expereince the quiet reflection this setting seems to encourage. We walked through the town yesterday and completely circumnavigated the graveyard without even a hint as to its existence.
However, tonight was clearly special, and an important local custom. The candle and twighlight lit cemetery had been unexpected. As we wandered the town waiting for the music, we found there was a gentle but unmistakeable flood of people from streets and alleyways, always gravitating towards the central church. We expected that they would converge on the church itself, seeking those few remaining places within. However, we found ourselves back in the cemetery, but this time with literally hundreds and proabably thousands of people, most of whom appeared to be locals visiting the graves of relatives. By this time almost all the graves had candles burning, with many having Christmas trees replete with multiple candles, and a very high proportion of the graves had people actively tending to them.
This was unexpected and moving. The sheer scale of the gathering, and the serious and reflective, but also welcoming, mood was quite remarkable. At precisely 5pm the music began. Not the powerful brass Christmas carolling that we anticipated, but a slow, quiet and wheezy instrumental rendering of Silent Night drifted from the tower and across the courtyard. It was cold, but didn't seem to be. As the last refrain hung in the night, there was no applause or reaction, just a murmuring and respectful silence. Shortly, Silent Night began again, and finished again. It was repeated four or five times, each time with the same slow, controlled and gentle delivery. After the last recital, loud cracks of fireworks echoed across the valley and the crowd slowly and peacefully moved towards the exits from the cemetery.
The mood on the streets was bouyant, the crowd evidently largely local. Large groups with lanterns moved more purposefully towards the eating Haus's, and my impression was that the serious part of the evening was over and that the celebrations could now begin. We reckon it was likely that a good half of the local population may have been in the cemetery with us this evening.
We then walked back to the hotel, obviously sharing the paths with locals heading home, many (like us) carrying and cajolling small children onwards through the night. At the hotel there was a brief gathering of staff and guests, with sparkling wines, carols, piano and recitals by the family who own the hotel, and then a full scale six-course Christmas dinner. We finsihed with congnac at the bar, enjoying the second last night of our stay here together. This trip has been 15 months in the planning, and despite the travails of travelling with children, has been most worthwhile - it is sad to think this part is almost over, though Christmas morning remains to keep our excitement up.
It has been a remarkable night. On every trip I've had the chance to take there have been standout moments that took me by surprise and are the enduring images of that still resonate years later. A permanently twighlit night on Oslo Fjord; a dinner in a pub in England; camping on a beach in Ningaloo Reef; these are nights and times that I can describe in intricate detail long after the surrounding experiences have faded. Tonight will be one of those.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
St Gilgen
It's fair to say that the reason you spend years going to uni, getting a job, working long hours and trying to get some money together is so that you can spend it at a place like St Gilgen. It's not cheap to get here or stay here, but sipping cognac at the bar feels a lot like money very well spent! 
St Gilgen is in the north western part of the northern part of Austria, a description that makes sense when you see a map. It's right on a lake (Wolfgansee) less than 100km East South East of Salzburg, and in the shadow of the 1522m peak of the Wolferhorn. It is an idyllic village, pretty much the embodiment of what you expect of an Austrian alpine village with traditional architecture, chaotic street layouts and amazing backdrops. The photo here is the view from our suite, which is a beautiful 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom plus lounge affair in itself.
The hotel has an amazing wellness centre featuring gym equipment, saunas (no bathing suits allowed), masseuse and a superb pool room with glass roof and wooden frame. Aside from my having to jump in fully clothed to rescue Aidan who leaped in not realising how deep the water was, the pool visit was a highlight of the first day (especially for the kids, who don't get as much out of the architecture as we do – though Aidan's highlight so far was the natural history museum in Vienna). The hotel includes breakfast (gives continental breakfasts a good name) and dinner (4 courses), and our strategy is to feed the kids early and then put them to bed in the suite while we eat (and check them between courses). Assuming they are asleep, and they did a great job yesterday, then we will continue to retire to the bar, which is a spectacular set up with a variety of stylishly comfortable seating arrangements, log fire and extensive drinks list.
The next couple of days are holidays, so we should be having a couple of easy days checking out the local scenery and enjoying the hospitality, which is outstanding.
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Reflections
We leave Vienna tomorrow, and today being the last Sunday before Christmas, all but the Christmas Markets are closed and the city has a very slow and relaxed day. Our plan is to head down to the main parklands in the city centre (Stadt Park), before a final visit to the markets around the Schonbrunn Palace this afternoon.
It seems a good time to reflect on the visit to Vienna. We've been staying in Singerstrasse, a street in the First District that radiates away from Stephensplatz, the site of Stephensdom which is a magnificent medieval cathedral and just a 3-4 min walk up the street. Vienna is – to an Australian - an interesting juxtaposition of history and modernity. The formal order and unrelenting timeless stylishness of the older buildings contrasts with more modern glass extensions and the very modern inhabitants. This combination of modern life in a ancient setting is very normal in European cities which have evolved over hundreds of years – but totally out of the ordinary for Australia, where the opportunity for such a long architectural history has not yet developed. For those who know King St in Perth, that is a reasonable approximation of a Viennese 1st District street – except it needs to be narrower, with less regular paving, and 5 storey buildings on both sides.
The Austrian people have a reputation for severity, and that certainly seems to be the case. There is no hostility, but also little overt politeness except in active social exchanges. I wonder if it is partly because of the insularity that coldness tends to inspire, but is I gather more prevalent in Austria than other countries, and so there must be more to it than that. One good thing is that the general lack of concern shown to you by others occasionally allows you to be a little that way yourself when you want.
The language barrier has been less of an issue than might be expected. Justine's parents have noticed a much greater prevalence of English on this visit, both spoken and printed. We have generally been able to communicate very basic universal concepts (eg: 2 chocolate croissants) with basic German utterances and pointing – but to be honest there have been few times where the English of the people we encounter has not been almost embarrassingly good. Aidan has found it odd that Mum and Dad can't understand all the language, and in the taxi from the airport he launched into his full Indonesian repertoire as being the only non-English reference point he knew of.
All in all it has been an interesting visit. Last time I was here it was blanketed by several feet of snow, so to see it cold but snow-free has been a nice 'change'. It is notable how much more bitter the cold of daytime maximum temps of only a few degrees is compared to max's of even 8-12 that we get in Canberra. I think the cold, grey and rain really add to the experience, even if I am not sure you would want it all the time!
Tomorrow we had off to St Gilgen's near Salzburg for christmas. I'm not sure how good the internet access will be from here on – the cable connection in our room has been very handy so far! Will update the blog as and when I get the chance from now on.
It seems a good time to reflect on the visit to Vienna. We've been staying in Singerstrasse, a street in the First District that radiates away from Stephensplatz, the site of Stephensdom which is a magnificent medieval cathedral and just a 3-4 min walk up the street. Vienna is – to an Australian - an interesting juxtaposition of history and modernity. The formal order and unrelenting timeless stylishness of the older buildings contrasts with more modern glass extensions and the very modern inhabitants. This combination of modern life in a ancient setting is very normal in European cities which have evolved over hundreds of years – but totally out of the ordinary for Australia, where the opportunity for such a long architectural history has not yet developed. For those who know King St in Perth, that is a reasonable approximation of a Viennese 1st District street – except it needs to be narrower, with less regular paving, and 5 storey buildings on both sides.
The Austrian people have a reputation for severity, and that certainly seems to be the case. There is no hostility, but also little overt politeness except in active social exchanges. I wonder if it is partly because of the insularity that coldness tends to inspire, but is I gather more prevalent in Austria than other countries, and so there must be more to it than that. One good thing is that the general lack of concern shown to you by others occasionally allows you to be a little that way yourself when you want.The language barrier has been less of an issue than might be expected. Justine's parents have noticed a much greater prevalence of English on this visit, both spoken and printed. We have generally been able to communicate very basic universal concepts (eg: 2 chocolate croissants) with basic German utterances and pointing – but to be honest there have been few times where the English of the people we encounter has not been almost embarrassingly good. Aidan has found it odd that Mum and Dad can't understand all the language, and in the taxi from the airport he launched into his full Indonesian repertoire as being the only non-English reference point he knew of.
All in all it has been an interesting visit. Last time I was here it was blanketed by several feet of snow, so to see it cold but snow-free has been a nice 'change'. It is notable how much more bitter the cold of daytime maximum temps of only a few degrees is compared to max's of even 8-12 that we get in Canberra. I think the cold, grey and rain really add to the experience, even if I am not sure you would want it all the time!Tomorrow we had off to St Gilgen's near Salzburg for christmas. I'm not sure how good the internet access will be from here on – the cable connection in our room has been very handy so far! Will update the blog as and when I get the chance from now on.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Ah Vienna
We didn't get up to all that much yesterday, just enjoying being in a new and different place and all the sights and sounds that it entails. The main even of the day was a trip to the Prater, a huge 'fair' as Aidan described it. It is a summer facility, so very little was open other than the Reisenrad – a huge ferris wheel with enclosed carriages from which you can see the whole city and its setting.
We had been up in it in 2000 when I was last here, but that day was so foggy we literally couldn't see anything of the city. This time we had a great view, which was nice. Aidan was more interested in looking down on the roller coasters and the ghost train below, but for us it was really interesting to look out across the rest of the city that we haven't really seen and to see the different styles from very traditional to very modern.
In the evening we went to a little restaurant downstairs and feasted to the point where no-one could move. Luckily it was only a 50m walk home!
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Snowing in Vienna
It's snowing in Vienna.
The ground is still too warm for any accumulation, but just seeing falling snow in front of the backdrop of the historic Imperial buildings is quite awe inspiring really. Wandering the Viennese Christkindelmarkts sipping steaming glu-wein rot (red mulled wine) and watching the snow flitting through the bright lights is a scene straight out of the European winter holiday text book. But that does not in any way diminish the enjoyment of the experience.
Aidan and David spent several hours today wandering the
Natural History Museum. It is spectacular building (the domed building featured in several previous images), and the image here is the inside of that dome. We were thinking of a similar style of finish for our lounge room at home, but yet to find a suitable contractor...
The ground is still too warm for any accumulation, but just seeing falling snow in front of the backdrop of the historic Imperial buildings is quite awe inspiring really. Wandering the Viennese Christkindelmarkts sipping steaming glu-wein rot (red mulled wine) and watching the snow flitting through the bright lights is a scene straight out of the European winter holiday text book. But that does not in any way diminish the enjoyment of the experience.
Aidan and David spent several hours today wandering the
Natural History Museum. It is spectacular building (the domed building featured in several previous images), and the image here is the inside of that dome. We were thinking of a similar style of finish for our lounge room at home, but yet to find a suitable contractor...
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Pumping chunky rain
Today is Justine's birthday, so we're planning a day of coffeehaus's, food and opera in the evening. The weather has turned a little less conducive to outside activities, so I think we'll do the inside things like museums and the like.The rain is a little chunky, and there is a little chance of snow at some point in the next day or two. Here's hoping
Yesterday we had lunch with Justine's parent's former landlords from when they lived here in the late 90s. Let's just say that the menu included pheasant and venison hunted from the forests around Wolfgang's golf club and the wine was from the vineyard of his tailor's wifes family, and I'm sure you can fill in the rest of the imagery. Don't forget the chandeliers and 17th century paintings.Heading back from lunch into the centre of Vienna we intended to visit one of the many Christmas markets, but with the weather turning a little wetter we curtailed our browsing and took the underground back to the apartments, before heading out to a little restaurant in the surrounding streets for dinner. It turned out to be some sort of
Georgian crepe house we think, given the source of the wine and mineral water, and probably the waitress. We originally rejected one restaurant as Tim felt it wasn't pumping enough for him, and while where we finished up couldn't exactly have been described as pumping either - it was pretty good nonetheless.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Welcome to Vienna
So we made it - and on a scale of 1 - 10 where 1 is a disaster and 10 is the best trip you can imagine, we gave it about an 8/10. The planes were all pretty much on time, the kids slept OK, and no-one really lost it at any time. These two shots are at Dubai airport. Nice enough, but like any airport, pretty soulless. We paid something like $8AUD for a cup of tea or coffee - but as you can see, they weren't mucking about when the size was referred to as 'massive'!
Vienna has been cool but precipitation-free so far. It gets dark by 4pm, so we had only a few hours light Monday afternoon. We walked up the road to Stephansdom, which is the cathedral in this image, which is about 1km up the road. There are spectacular christmas lights here, Vienna is renowned for them, and some of the smaller streets are quite breathtaking - and so surprising as you never know what is around any given corner. Many little alleys end with some amazing church or public building.Then a quick bite and everyone was in bed by about 6-8pm. After a great night's sleep we were all up about 8am on Tuesday and on the right timezone. Still a little sleep deprived after the travel, but pretty good. Spent today wandering around Vienna, checking out local Weiner Schnitzel options and sampling pastries. About to get a tram to the chrismas markets - the first of many such excursions I expect. Aidan and Lauren have been very excited by having Nana, O'pa, Kristen and Tim here, which is great for everyone.
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Sydney airport
Well, that's 0.45 flying hours down and about 20 to go!Here we are alive and well in Sydney International Airport,
hoping to board shortly.
Flight from Canberra was good - like to think that the
next one will be the same! Less hopeful, as both kids
demeanor is notable less positive than when we left.
Hoping sleep kicks in early.
So - so far so good!
hoping to board shortly.
Flight from Canberra was good - like to think that the
next one will be the same! Less hopeful, as both kids
demeanor is notable less positive than when we left.
Hoping sleep kicks in early.
So - so far so good!
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Last sleep in Australia
Well, assuming we get through the night in a single sleep (doubtful), there is just one sleep to go before we head off.
Our bags are packed, the taxis waiting...you know, I think there could be a song in this somewhere!
Anyway - all going to plan the next post here will be from somewhere far away (unless I get bored in a wireless hotspot in Sydney airport tomorrow afternoon). More details as they come to hand. Pictures at eleven.
Phenergan is my friend at this stage. Don't leave home without it. (I think there might be a fabulous advbertising slogan there somehwere as well, but I can't think of what sort of product it could go with...)
Our bags are packed, the taxis waiting...you know, I think there could be a song in this somewhere!
Anyway - all going to plan the next post here will be from somewhere far away (unless I get bored in a wireless hotspot in Sydney airport tomorrow afternoon). More details as they come to hand. Pictures at eleven.
Phenergan is my friend at this stage. Don't leave home without it. (I think there might be a fabulous advbertising slogan there somehwere as well, but I can't think of what sort of product it could go with...)
Monday, December 8, 2008
5 days to go
Not long now. Lot's of things left to do, but Aidan's fridge-based countdown tells us unequivocally that there is not enough time to do them. Kind of liberating in one way, but in another way it adds a layer of stress that isn't exactly helpful. Still, one way or the other Sunday afternoon will come round and we will be on our way.
There is a fair bit of excitement, except for Lauren who has absolutely no idea what is about to happen to her!
Hopefully she travels well, but Justine and I are not bothering to pack any reading material for the 20+ hours of travel, so that probably says something about our expectations...
Feels like one of those weeks where you are just filling in time waiting for the next real thing to happen.
There is a fair bit of excitement, except for Lauren who has absolutely no idea what is about to happen to her!
Hopefully she travels well, but Justine and I are not bothering to pack any reading material for the 20+ hours of travel, so that probably says something about our expectations...Feels like one of those weeks where you are just filling in time waiting for the next real thing to happen.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)